Τμήμα Ωκεανογραφίας και Θαλασσίων Βιοεπιστημών

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Coastal Morphodynamics and Engineering
School:
Of the Environment
Academic Unit:
Department of Marine Sciences
Level of studies:
Undergraduate
Course Code:
191ΕΩ6Υ
Semester:
F
Course Title:
Coastal Morphodynamics and Engineering
Credits
5
Course Type:
Special background
Prerequisite Courses:
No
Language of Instruction and Examinations:
Greek
Is the course offered to Erasmus students:
Yes
  • (2) Learning Outcomes
  • Learning Outcomes

After the successful completion of the course, students should be able to:

  • Understand the basic principles, theory and mathematical equations of coastal engineering

  • Know the main types of coastal environments and understand their function

  • Maintain an integrated approach of processes and transport phenomena in the coastal area

  • Understand the environmental factors controlling coastal geomorphological evolution (morphodynamics)

  • Understand the implementation options of coastal morphodynamics and engineering

  • Use the acquired knowledge to solve real problems

  • Use of state-of-the-art software for the analysis of topographic and meteorological data

  • Use morphodynamic models to simulate nearshore morphological evolution of the coasts and estimate shoreline retreat due to sea level rise

  • General Competences

  • Search for, analysis and synthesis of data and information, with the use of the necessary technology

  • Team work

  • Respect for the natural environment

  • Production of free, creative and inductive thinking

  • (3) Syllabus

The course includes the following topics:

  • Elements of wave engineering, Circulation – mixture and sediment transport, Coastal structures and coastal morphodynamics

  • Wave characteristics, Linear and non linear wave theory

  • Shoaling, Refraction, Diffraction, Breaking, Reflection, Runup

  • Typology of currents, Processes in the wave breaking zone, Coastal wave-generated currents (long-shore currents, rip currents)

  • Generation of wind waves, Statistical analysis and energy spectra, Empirical models of wave forecasting

  • Coastal sediments (nature/special characteristics), Movement of sediments and bottom shear stress, Mechanism of sediment transport, Quantitative equations of sediment transport

  • Cross-shore sediment transport, Long-shore sediment transport, Coastal sediment budget, Coast-coastal works interaction

  • Pressure on the coast, Mean Sea Level Rise, Episodic extreme sea levels (storm surge, wave set-up), Coastal retreat/inundation, Vulnerability of coastal infrastructures

  • Coastal erosion, Natural and anthropogenic causes of coastal erosion, Coastal protection schemes under current and future climate

  • Construction materials of coastal works, Jetties, Groins, Breakwaters, Sea walls, Morphological responses from coastal works, Climate change and coastal works

  • Monitoring methods of coastal morphodynamics, The challenges of spatio-temporal scales, Collection of morphodynamic and sediment dynamic data using state-of-the-art equipment, Laboratory experiments in wave tank, Remote sensing methods, Optical monitoring methods

  • Simulation of coastal morphodynamics, Categorization of the models, Sensitivity and validation of the models, Simulations under climate change, Case studies

  • (4) Teaching and Learning Methods - Evaluation
  • Delivery:

Face to face

  • Use of Information and Communication Technology:
  • Computer-based laboratory exercises using Guide User Interfaces (GUIs)
  • Use of ICT in teaching (PowerPoint presentations)
  • Communication with students through the platform eclass and email
  • Uploading of lecture slides and other educational material on e-class
  • Teaching Methods:
Activity Semester workload
Lectures
40
Laboratory exercises
22
Independent study
35
Homework
25
Final exam
3
Course total
125
  • Student Performance Evaluation:

  • Assessment of the knowledge base is through a combination of coursework submissions (30%) as well as final examination (70%).

  • Students with writing difficulties are tested orally

  • Language of evaluation: Greek, in case of ERASMUS students: English

  • (5) Attached Bibliography

– Suggested bibliography:

 

a) Basic Text books:

b) Additional References:

    • Coastal engineering manual, (2008). U.S. Army Corpses of Engineers. https://www.publications.usace.army.mil/USACE-Publications/Engineer-Manuals/

    • Robert G. Dean and Robert A. Dalrymple, (2000). Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists. World Scientific Publishing.

    • Robert G. Dean and Robert A. Dalrymple, (2002). Coastal processes with engineering applications, Cambridge University Press.

    • Μέμος Κ. (2005): Μαθήματα Λιμενικών Έργων, Εκδ. Συμμετρία, Αθήνα

    • Sawaragi T., (1995). Coastal engineering – waves, beaches, wave-structure interactions, Elsevier, The Netherlands.

    • Robert Sorensen, (1997). Basic coastal engineering, Springer (Editor).

    • Crossland Ch. (2005) Coastal Fluxes in the Anthropocene, ISBN-10 3-540-25450-10 (e-book) Springer Berlin Heidelberg New York

    • Nick Harvey, Global Change and Integrated Coastal Management, ISBN-10 1-4020-3628-0 (e-book)

    • Koutsogiannis D. & Xanthopoulos (1999) Technical hydrology, NTUA

    • Mimikou M. (2006) Water Resources Technology, Papasotiriou